This article is based around the Rabid Chimp turbo kit. However, this is not the only way to turbocharge your 5M-GE. You can do the install with parts off of a 7M-GTE engine also.

Remove the intake. You will only use the airflow sensor with the turbo kit:

Then remove the exhaust heat shield:

Unbolt the stiffener bar that goes from the power steering pump to the exhaust manifold. You will not use this again:

Disconnect the O2 sensor and remove it from the stock manifold. You will need to reuse this later on in the install:

Remove the stock exhaust manifold. You will obviously not be using it with this install:

Remove the stock exhaust system next. We had some trouble getting ours off, so we had to use an air grinder on it:

You MUST clean the side of your cylinder head where the gasket will go. This is a must for proper sealing of the exhaust gasses. We used Simple Green, which can be purchased at your local Advance Auto Parts store:

BEFORE:

AFTER:

Drain the oil next. You will either have to get a bung welded into the side of the oil pan, or order a new oil pan from Rabid Chimp. The bung is for the oil supply to the turbo:

Next remove your stock oil pan. You will need to raise your car and engine up in order to do this. You will need to unbolt the motor mounts where they attach to the frame. Our mounts were "rust-welded" to the frame, and a small chisel and hammer can solve this. We used two 1/4" pieces of wood on each side to accomplish this:

You will need to clean the oil pan's gasket surface next. You need to make it spotless to insure a perfect seal:

The next step is to install your new or modded oil pan. Aaron from Rabid Chimp recommends using Permatex high-temperature gasket material instead of a traditional gasket. This is to insure an even-better seal than the traditional gasket due to the fact that the Permatex material is a gel-like substance:

We replaced the stock valve covers in favor of some semi-gloss black ones that I had previously refinished. If you are interested in a set of refinished valve covers, email me at Lga1122@aol.com:

The next step in the install is to install a splitter fitting into the side of the block. The hole for the fitting will already be there, and it will be occupied by a sensor. Unscrew this sensor, and screw it back into the splitter fitting. You will need the other hole in the splitter fitting for one of the turbo oil lines:

We replaced the stock studs with new ones from Toyota. This is not a necessary step, but it is a smart one:

Install the turbo exhaust manifold next. You will have to make a small cut in the manifold for it to clear the power steering pump if you do not already have a manifold from Rabid Chimp:

You will want to install your oil lines and coolant lines to your turbo next. It will be nearly impossible to do so when you have the turbo in the car, so installing the lines when the turbo is out of the car is your best bet. The steel-braided line is the oil line, and the plate with the fitting coming out of it is the coolant line. These lines can be purchased from Rabid Chimp. There will be a plate on the opposite side of the coolant port that can be seen. Remove this plate, as you will need to use both coolant ports to cool this turbo:

The next part in this install is the part that will make you smile. This is the step of actually installing the turbocharger on your engine. Take care when slipping the turbo onto the manifold so you do not mess up the threads:

On our install, the intake accordion hose that comes off of the front of the turbo smashed two power steering lines. We solved this problem by replacing these lines with longer ones, and rerouting the new lines around the accordion hose:

One of our coolant lines was also be touching the head/valve cover. The coolant in the hose will be significantly hotter than the head or the valve cover, so it was not an issue:

You may want to reuse your stock mechanical fan, but we do not recommend it. We ditched out mechanical fan in favor of a Flex-a-lite #210 fan setup. These fans can be purchased at your local JEGS. The instructions for this install can be found here. The #210 fans are nearly a perfect fit for the Supra's radiator, and they will free up horsepower and extend your water pump's life:

The intercooler in the Rabid Chimp kit will not fit unless you modify one of the hood latch brackets. Here is how your bracket should look after modification:

You may want to connect your turbo oil lines to the oil pan and splitter-fitting now. We recommend using ARP racing thread sealer to insure a leak-free seal. This can be purchased at your local JEGS:

Now is the perfect time to install your turbo downpipe. We are using a 3" ceramic coated Rabid Chimp downpipe. This downpipe requires you to remove your charcoal canister, as it will not fit with the canister in place. We had to modify our downpipe as the mounting tab was a little bit too long. This was accomplished with a Dremel rotary-tool:

Although it is not necessary at the moment, you may want to install your O2 sensor into the downpipe now:

Next comes the intercooler and intercooler piping. We are using a hard-pipe kit from Rabid Chimp. This is an easy-to-install kit that looks great when it is done as you can see on the Supra Pics page of the website. The reason that there is cardboard on the intercooler in the pictures is so that the fins do not get bent. This is a step that we highly recommend if you decide to take on the 5M-GTE challenge:

You will need to cut into a vacuum line for your blowoff valve. The manufacturer's instructions should tell you how to do this:

Another step that we recommend is installing a one-way valve in the vacuum line going to the brake booster. This is so you do not pressurize the brake booster and make it hard to brake under boost. The valve we recommend using is off of a turbo MKIII Supra (1987-1992). You may be able to get this part at your local Toyota dealer, but they are hard to come by (the one that we got was the only one left in Ohio):

There is one final step that we took on this install: installing an oil filter relocation kit. The kit that we used can be purchased from Summit Racing here. Without this kit, you will need to remove the intercooler pipe that comes off of the turbo, and it is a major bitch to get off and on. We took the extra step of using braided steel lines and AN fittings to make the oil flow even better. It is not in the picture, but the second fitting off of the relocation plate should be a 45-degree fitting instead of the 90-degree one shown. This makes it a lot easier to screw the fitting in:

As far as lubrication goes, we are using AMSOIL 10W40 oil and, as you can see from the above pictures, and AMSOIL oil filter. You can purchase AMSOIL products from me in the Shop:

Well, that's about it for the hard installation. Look for future tech articles on things like tuning, engine builds, and various other buildups. Remember, Alex's Supra Site is your home for MkII Supra performance.